Head tube angle determines the angle of your forks. A steeper HT (i.e 75°and higher) will make the bike turn quicker than a mellower angle (i.e 74.5 and lower°). The more responsive the frame, the more twitchy it will feel, especially at highspeed!
2019 Battleship frame from Wethepeople in Dan Kruk's colourway. Wethepeople designed the Battleship frame to be a stripped down weapon without any unnecessary features, so the frame will come fully brakeless to help keep the cost down, which will allowed them to put more focus into more vital parts like the dropouts and headtube which have been severely beefed up.
Wethepeople took battle-proven hydroformed tubing to create a larger contact/weld area to the headtube. Paired up with a taller 127mm headtube, this not only creates an incredibly strong and stiff front end, but also reduces the need for vast amounts of headset spacers for a much cleaner look.
The Battleship frame was a chance to really see just how responsive a BMX frame could be. The chainstays have been shortened up to 12.7", which gives you a much shorter wheelbase, and in return helping with spins and making the bike easier to throw around. Despite this super short back end, the frame still accommodates a 2.45"+ tyre and a 28t sprocket.
The dropouts on the Battleship are 6mm thick and CNC machined out of 4130 chromoly, and then heat treated for extra strength. To combat a lot of issues that street frames traditionally suffered from, they use a special dropout shape on the Battleship that is designed to give ample room for hubguards and line up perfectly with pegs, even when at the slammed length of 12.7". If that's too short, you can also run your wheel one half-link longer at 13", and not have to worry about your pegs or guard not having adequate contact with the dropouts.
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NEED SOME HELP UNDERSTANDING FRAME GEOMETRY?
bmx frame geometry can look daunting but thanks to our handy guide below you will have it figured out in no time, and remember we're all bmxers here, so if you have any questions just ask.
Frame Size Chart
Frame Sizing is very much a personal preference, some riders like them longer, others shorter - here's a rough guide - if you have any questions remember we are here to help!
3ft - 4ft - best suited to a 16" or 18" wheeled bike
4ft - 5ft - 18" to 20" top tube
5ft - 5ft 4" - 20" to 20.25" top tube
5ft 4" - 5ft 8" - 20.25" to 21" top tube
5ft 8" - 6ft - 21" to 21.25" top tube
6ft Plus - 21" top tube or longer
Frame Geometry can take a bit of understanding - but here at SourceBMX we are here to help! The first thing to understand is that BMX frame Sizing is best measured by the length of the Top Tube - shown here as TT. Keep reading on to understand how the angles change how your frame will feel and check out our sizing chart below!
Headtube Angle (HT)
Chain Stay Length (CS)
The chain stay is essentially the length of the rear end of the bike. A shorter CS length will make the bike more responsive and a longer one more stable. As a rough guide a 13.5" long chain stay is about average.
Seat Tube Angle (ST)
Seat tube angles don’t vary too much (around 71°) and affect the centre of gravity. The steeper the angle the shorter your bike will feel. Some frames have a mellower seat tube angle (example 69˚) which makes for a longer frame without actually being longer and reduces how fast your frame turns.
Stand Over Height (SO)
Standover height is essentially how high your frame is. A frame with a low standover height is more responsive and easier to ‘throw around’ whilst a high SO height is more stable; particularly useful when going fast.